Built in Filter

So the "Redscale" film was processed. I am very happy with the results. The contrast is a vast improvement over the original usage of the film.
See what you think

Enterance to Museum station

Mark Foy's Building, Sydney

Appartment Block in Sydney

Inside at work

Silhouette of St George's Presbyterian Church Castlereagh St Sydney

Old National Australia Bank Picton

So it you like the results go back one post and see how to do it.

Learning cool things from friends

This post is more a stream of consienceness than a tutorial.SO please keep this in mind..

 A cold and wet day in Picton, a rare to myself and I was chatting to Tim and Kevin in a yak conference whilst I took some BW400CN and reversed it. Before you all scream REDSCALE I would like to remind you all that BW400CN Is black and white. Kodak is the only maker of chromographic film with an orange backing (mind you, all Of kodak's c-41 film has a deep orange backing) and yes, I know there is ilford and Fuji, but their backs are clear (shows up grey) so no good for this experiment.

This is so I can have a built in filter for my black and white film. All the time I was doing this still chatting. All finished and I proudly show off my new pink film.. And suddenly Kevin asks innocently enough.. What will you shoot it at? Aargghh I had forgotten to work out a filter factor. And of course a camera can't work this out being on the wrong side of the lens. Lol. I took a guess at 2 or 3 stops and it was then that Kevin and I dug out our lightmeters. I couldn't find the one David lent me, think its in my camera bag.. Anyway.. He showed me how to measure the light drop off of a film. He didn't have the same film but it works and my brain had a click moment. OF COURSE!!

He measured the light. I used an app called Light Meter not my usual one, but does this job.

So you set an arbitrary asa, and select an arbitrary shutter speed measure the resulting f stop.

Hold the film over the the light Meter and measure again. The first reading with no film was f/4.5. Holding the BC400CN in front of the light meter I measured again and got f/2.2 that's close enough to two stops.

So I have to adjust the exposing times by two stops. That's rating it at 100asa. 



Kevin's example, before putting the film across (Kevin's photo)

 

Kevin's example 2 with asa 100 film (Kevin's photo

In Kevin's Example, he selected 1/30th of a sec and asa 400 (The figures don't matter) and he got f/11 when he put his asa 100 film across he got f/1. He is meauring the whole thickness of the fim but if we redscale we are only looking to get the light through the anti-halation layer and not all the way through that would be 2.5 stops. 

My meauring was 7.5stops. and using a 100 speed film gave me 6 stops. all this runs around 2-3 stops we have to allow for the anti-halation layer. Now of course this is all witch doctory and at the end of the day, red-scale is always 2 stops at least depending on your wanted result. Slightly underexposing  will ove a deeper red. This only means in my case that the red/orange filter strength for my B&W film is 2-3 stops strength.

remember this is only to get you a ball park place to start. by all means just shoot at 2 stops and if you are wanting a different result move over or under.I feel 4 stops would be too much and you would lose too much detail. Then again if you are using colour film and want yellow then 3 stops would be a setting to use.

My town was hit with another heavy storm and I had to toss stuff into David's car and go to a safe place for the car.

Sitting in a cafe watching the storm, I went to load the newly re-spooled film into my F-1. Um. D'oh! In the rush I had forgotten to cut a new leader. Sigh. Going to Coles, I found the cheapest scissors i could find and a laundry marker. Problem fixed. But my photo op had passed. Oh well.

I took the Hawkeye out ship hunting.

As stated on my personal blog (July 4 entry I went ship hunting. The US navy was in town and are leaving in the 9th. You can read it there.

ANYWAY I had taken the B'&W film out of the Hawkeye Ace Deluxe... (See previous post) and re-loaded it with my hand rolled colour Kodak Portra. I wanted to test my rolling skills and if this film was ok after its misshandling. Hahaha I am not very gentle.

Anyway here are the results. the light leaks were most likely caused by me as I carried ou of the camera.









You can see where I have just not covered the film as I took it out and the light has seeps in (It was a hot winter's day)

the leaks got all the way to frame one Below



But the test is a success the camera works (for a cereal packet freebie) and the film works fine. I just need to take more care in carrying it.

To the John Vegas, the guy getting a few rolls, take care of the pre- and post- loading of the film, it will leak like this, use in tin foil or a adapted film container.

Oh and LMK your address!!

oooo over a week I am getting bad..

Sorry Y'all.. Mind you I think my only follower will notice when she returns from the UK . HI CHRISSIE

ANYWAY

I received a Hawkeye Ace Deluxe ooo the deluxe.. you say..
Well the little information in the net ias the same crap regurgitated over and over.. But no one has looked into it. Well I was inclined to believe the references to this camera being made in one year 1938 until one lady has har Grandmother's one in its postal packaging and it is post marked 1937. soooo It was made in at least two years.

It was made in the Harrow Factory in the UK ONLY and was given away with comics



It had a card box and the rest s the shutter assembly mounted to wood.



Kodak had these as premium line cameras and hence alost no records were kept, at least they didn't appear in catalogues.
I have no idea of the aperture or the shutter speed and it seems no one else does either SOOOO As it is a box camera made by Kodak, I will make te assumption of f/13 (Although the hole looks small) and a shutter speed of 1/30th. I have put a Efke 100 film in so lets work with that.



Oh and it has these fancy film guide rails... Snazzy..

Oh and the deluxe? Means I got lugs for my camera strap. YAY!! There were 4 models two with smooth faces and two with rough faces.

the base model (haha) Smooth face and no lugs = Baby Hawkeye
Next up with textured face & No lugs = Hawkeye Ace
the deluxe models were
Smooth face & lugs = Hawkeye
And textured face = Hawkeye Ace deluxe.


The next Box Brownie comes from the UK (As I prefer UK boxes)

This is similar to Orangetim's Box Brownie Model D but his is much older. (1946-1953)
the second type of Model D this one was made from 1953-1957. This model has flash contacts, a striped enamel face and triangular catch at the back Also a tripod mount but not all of this model have a tripod mount




Model F

Produced in 1955-1957 (2 years)

Deluxe "Sporty" version of the Model E, it has (As you can see) Tan covering and bras trim. Essentially the same as the Model E

Both are F/11



the last one is the Kodak 44A
A plastic camera built between 1959 and 1966, it takes 12 44mm square pictures and this is where the camera gets its name. There was a 44B but this was produced for three years only and in conjunction with the 44A. (sigh why really??)
The 44A had a hard plastic cover (Which annoys me)
It was the first camera to employ a plastic taking lens from Combined Optical Industries Ltd,using "Perspex". Only two stops numbered 12 and 13, to allow some degree of control over the exposure. BUT you can only use during the day :-( I got this camera from Ebay and it has film in it which I am using up to develop. We shall see if the film wasn't exposed before being sent to me.

Catch up

Geez it's been a while since I have blogged. I have been extremely busy but not really doing much. Work was busy and then I have been just too exhausted to do much else. So going through my photo diary I'll transcribe what I have written there.

general
Agfa Cadet trial was a failure.. Mostly do to my inept handling of the film. I needed more sticky tape.
My No1 Box Brownie needs a winder so I sourced a broken n2 Box brownie as a donor. This camera dates from 1904-1907 and uses sight lines on the top of the box for lining up your shot. It's as small as a bug!! I am constantly amazed at how tiny these boxes are and what lovely photos they produce 100 years later. As this on uses 117 film size I may be able to get 127 size to fit.

The Box Brownie Flash II Had issues last film in the winding the holes in the 120 spools where just too big for the winder.

2 May

My Birthday box filled with goodies arrived. It was filled with all sorts of goodies that I had collected from January to April in my US mailbox. 10kg of presents.
2X Diana Clones
1X Black mini
1x Box Brownie No3 though I have since decided to sell this one. The film size is 4.5 inches wide!! Unless I wind two 120s on one spool... :-(
1x Box Brownie special ( trapezoidal shape)
1x Valiant Six-20 folding camera with box light tight bellows. Very exciting
1x bag of film but from when I wanted high ASA so hmmm I'll sell most of this
Japanese film and some spools and a military bag that I wanted as a handbag. :-)
Several copies of Light leaks magazine. The only ones missed, I have as PDF anyway.
Brightened a low day I was now too busy to be depressed.

3 May
Mother got the mail today and so I woke up to a huge box and two smaller boxes. One had a pristine No2 Box brownie that I have dated to 1919. This works flawlessly and takes 120 without any need to re-spool. The awesome thing about this camera are the three apertures. Research tells me that they are f/11, f/16 and f/22 but some forums are telling me f/16, f/22 and f/32 I am inclined to use the first scale as my BBF2 is around f/11. The Brownies have a shutter speed of 1/35 to 1/50th of a second.
The other small Box has a pocket folding Kodak No1. This old camera is a little worse for wear, the red window was missing, the glass at the front of the spotter is missing and the bellows part is stuck to the film part. I spent some time priding the two parts apart and found a film! Gee. The Bellows tested as light tight.cool!!

4 May
Birthday spent totally alone. Don't ask.

5 May
After night shift, I went to Cape Banks. This is my healing place and the past few days have been emotionally very tough. I do manage but some days are harder than others.
I arrived before dawn and the sky was only beginning to lighten. The car park was filled with Rabbits who scattered as soon as my headlights hit them. Only one lone fox near the houses.
I sat in the car for a few minutes and watched the sky lighten a bit.
Leaving the warmth of the car, I headed for the cliffs. As I walked down the path, I felt my mood lighten My plan was originally to go to the little Island and watch the sun rise from there as the freight ships come into port, but as I reached the top of the cliffs, I saw the rock pools left over from high seas last night. Heading over to the edge, I found a dry spot for put my bag down and set up. I found a sheltered spot for the pin hole camera where it would not blow away and settled down with my 1946 folding Kodak to shoot the rock pools as the sun rose.
Finishing the roll, I stood and and turned to change cameras and was quite startled to see a fox sniffing my camera bag. Faster than I can lift the iPhone, he vanished. Thankfully without Any of my stuff.
Next camera out was the 1919 Box Brownie No2 this had an ASA 50 film in it a fact that I promptly forgot and forgot to time expose two frames (d'oh!!)

Cape Banks worked it's magic on my soul. And as the sun took full custody of the day, I was ready to go home. Next stop was Vision Image.

Vision Image was not too difficult to get to from Cape Banks but as I passed under the airport flyover, I spied a sign telling me that the airport tunnel had one lane closed. OH No!! The South/west traffic was as a stand. Hmmm

The Man at Vision Image looked oddly at my ancient films. After careful study, he offers me Caffenol processing for the old old colour films. Some films were e-22!!! The Japanese films were a no go They were just too small.
Disappointed about the Japanese films, we chatted about the others, two Pan-X and a kodacolor. He suggested that if I want them in colour then he could ship them to the states. Eep I don't want to mortgage my house for film developing so we agreed on the Caffenol route,

I headed home via Botany road Maccas and pulled in for a coffee and a toast or muffin. As I walked in, I spied a sign "NO EFTPOS" due to banking problems. Westpac had suffered a huge failure and across the city hundreds of businesses had no EFTPOS. For me it meant nothing to eat. I headed home via the princess hwy then the M5 and I was delighted that this way had not traffic WIN!!

Later In the day I headed to the PO where there was 2 expired films waiting for me. A back 120 roll and a 127 one.

The 4th was such a shitty, dark day and the 5th was a golden one. It figures eh?

Film ID what is it and where does it come from 35mm edition

I wanted this to be a Lomography.com article as I thought (Stupidly) that they were open about film stock and happy to have people fully informed. Alas I was rejected as they didn't want people to learn about what film they are using. The problem I have is that I love this company, sure the cameras are overpriced and crappy quality control ( I am not the only one with faulty camera issues) but there is something lively about them and I am a loyal customer. SO I am not out to get them. I am not out to tell you what to buy and what to avoid, but its a little unfair to have a house film and not tell people what film stock you are selling poeple. For the Record I spend hundreds of dollars at their film shop, they have so many types of interesting films.

I have not done any research into 120mm stock, this is different just because a 35mm ISO 100 house film is one company, it is not necessarly so that the 120mm is the same company.

Another company which I adore but sells cheap house film (Of the same stock as Lomography.com) is four corners Dark.

Just know what you are buying and be happy. I like four corners Dark as I ised their house film to test cameras. It is cheap and cheap to process.

Anyway here is what you can do to see what you are feeding your lovelies (35MM)
Written for Lomography.com

Film stock is usually made on one of a very few factories and then re-packaged. I did write a tipster on this but alas it was not deemed worthy for publishing on the web site... soo Here it is for you to read. I hope you find it as interesting as I do.
I have had a few people ask me about identifying Films. I am talking 35mm films not Medium format as I have not done research into 120mm but from this article I hope you will be able to go out and find out for yourself and use these clues to ID your other films.

So you go to the chemist and see house film for 50c so its old and expired but we don’t care it’s CHEAP FILM!! But you know in your heart that you want to know. Its it really Agfa? Kodak? Iford?

Probably bored with me now.. But this is a passion of mine..
This web site has a whole list of the Kodak codes. It is 28 pages long!!!
Kodak Codes Be sure to send him a note and think him for his hard work.

Ferrania may be the biggest source for house label film. There are alternating green + and • symbols between the sprocket holes of every other frame. The font of the frame numbering is segmented, like an LED clock display. Easy right?? Actually you will find most or your Lomo house film (but not all) is This brand. Italian Film!! SWEET! (AS is Uboot and the house film from Four corners Dark)
FYI Ferrania do not make 120mm film… so if you do the research please Let me know.

Fuji film always seems to have coloured stripes running through the sprocket holes. The frame numbers are “pixelated.” There’s an arrow to the LEFT of the half-frame “A” numbers SO if you see bar codes, you have a fuji branded film. Klick Max is Fuji for example. You can see the coloured lines at the top and the barcode with Pixilated Numbers (Also the bar codes are Fuji see below)

But as it is rebranded it doesn’t have Fuji printed on the neg. On occasion this does happen though.

Kodak manufacturered film is numbered in an extended font with smooth outlines. The half-frame “A” numbers have a long-tailed arrow below & a bit to the left of them. There’s a short black bar between 0 and 1 (on the edge without barcodes).

And you can see its a Kodacolor Gold 400 film.

Agfa film. Hm I don’t have much agfa film and the one or two roll tell me that they are really Fuji films.. so I need to research Agfa a bit more. Agfa tends to use a Cyan line for some brands and red triangles for others… but here is what I have so far Symbol marks on colour negative films
Oprima 100 4 red squares
Oprima 200 4 red triangles
Oprima 400 2 red squares
Portrait 160 4 green squares
The cartridge colour tells you the processing for example red /C-41 blue Process E-6 grey B/W negative processing. I am happy to receive any more information you may have

3M or Scotch uses Dots.

OK you have not processed the film, you have only got the canister.. No problem!! Get the barcode number and go to the DX reader (Doesn’t work on windows explorer)
DX codes are here
http://www.imageaircraft.com.au/DXsim/
(Doesn’t work in Windows explorer, if you have the canister, you type in the barcode of the film and it will tell you film speed, exposures, maker etc etc etc good for house films) Lomo films I have are Ferrania, the u-boot films are Ferrania my Rollei retro films are AGFA etc etc

And you can see its a Kodacolor Gold 400 film.

Agfa film. Hm I don’t have much agfa film and the one or two roll tell me that they are really Fuji films.. so I need to research Agfa a bit more. Agfa tends to use a Cyan line for some brands and red triangles for others… but here is what I have so far Symbol marks on colour negative films
Oprima 100 4 red squares
Oprima 200 4 red triangles
Oprima 400 2 red squares
Portrait 160 4 green squares
The cartridge colour tells you the processing for example red /C-41 blue Process E-6 grey B/W negative processing. I am happy to receive any more information you may have

3M or Scotch uses Dots.

OK you have not processed the film, you have only got the canister.. No problem!! Get the barcode number and go to the DX reader (Doesn’t work on windows explorer)
DX codes are here
http://www.imageaircraft.com.au/DXsim/
(Doesn’t work in Windows explorer, if you have the canister, you type in the barcode of the film and it will tell you film speed, exposures, maker etc etc etc good for house films) Lomo films I have are Ferrania, the u-boot films are Ferrania my Rollei retro films are AGFA etc etc

From left to right we have made by..
1.Lomo Redscale 100 – Ferrania Imaging Color FG Plus 100
2. Color Slide X-pro ISO 200 – Rollei made by Agfa (This has no barcode but I can tell after developing)
3.Lomo X-pro Chrome ISO 100 – Eastman Kodak Company Film not indentified
4.Lomo 30mm ISO 100 Color negative – Ferrania Imaging Color FG Plus 100

So you see, the redscale and the ISO 100 normal are the same film but the redscale is loaded in reverse. Pretty cool huh??

I love these films so I am not nit picking. I love to see where things come from and how they are made and I hope you do to

If you need any more info send me a message